Walking a Wintry Darwen Moor Through Hoar Frosted Birch Trees

Winter grasses on Darwen moor

On leaving the house, I usually glance up at Darwen moor to get an idea of what weather is heading our way. Last week, to my surprise, the trees below Darwen Tower were standing out white with hoar frost against the darker moorland. Intrigued, we changed our plans and made our way up the hill so we could witness the effect up close.

My favourite routes follow the footpaths that criss-cross the moor rather than the main ones. Underfoot, imagine a slender, uneven path that suits itself to the contours of the land, leads over the crests; around miniature valleys; skirts streams, drops and denser vegetation; and heads straight through a series of boggy crossroads.

While the paths are easy to make out, they’re almost always muddy (which means slippery) and are littered with uneven stones. Ideally designed to twist an ankle.

The ground rises and falls underfoot to take account of an unassuming patchwork of mosses, heather and other low-growing, tufty, moorland plants which together make interlocking little mounds, broken up by ferns and grasses. The frost was giving them highlights, but my locally attuned eye delights in them on the drabbest day.

Frosted birch trees on Darwen Hill in winter above a path across moorland

Hoar frosted birch trees on Darwen moor

Moorland path through hoar-frosted trees

Strategically placed stepping stones make it possible to cross the worst of the waterlogged bits. Historically placed by fellow walkers, not local authorities, most ‘crossings’ show signs of just-in-time planning, providing the bare minimum needed for passage. Excess provisions will, over the years, have been repurposed to help navigate a new worst bit.

On a winter’s day, the stepping stones don’t look much different to the rest of the mud, and may or may not be loose underfoot, but have faith: barring a new, recent landslide, there will be a way.

While we hardly see anyone else during our climb, the mud offers proof that we’re never really travelling alone up there. A hodge-podge of footprints, pawprints and hoofprints show how many have recently passed this way.

Today, the trees are stealing the show. Darwen Tower is wearing a white scarf of frosted birches.

Trees white with hoar frost

Close up, the effect is remarkable. I hope you can feel some of the magic.

Birch trees on moorland covered with hoar frost

Looking over Darwen from the moor between hoar-frosted trees

Hoar frost on windblown plants

Frosted farm land on the edge of Darwen Moor

We passed above farmland on our way up – you might just be able to pick out a white horse, recently immortalised in a video about the town. We’re really not all that high or far from Darwen, but it always seems like another world.

Thick frost arching over moss

Darwen Tower on a frosty day

I’ll leave you with proof that we reached Darwen Tower. Sadly no cakes or hot chocolate were on offer. It’s grim up North.

Shared for the lovely Jo’s Monday Walk.

62 Replies to “Walking a Wintry Darwen Moor Through Hoar Frosted Birch Trees”

  1. My heavens. That’s an entirely magical landscape. How long does the frost last? Obviously it would depend on the temperature, but if I saw even a hint of it, I’d be off on a walk, too — just to see as much as I could before it melted away.

    1. It didn’t last long – less than a day, I’d guess. We have plenty of moisture but the air is not usually still enough for hoar. I’d have gone back up the day after, given the chance, but it was gone.

  2. Gasp! How unreal the real! Yes, we do seem to be thinking along the same lines! I got six minutes into the video and will continue it later, when I will have a word or two more (when don’t !?) but right now I can say that the guide in it has incredible energy! The moor and your writing are beautiful!

    1. When Wandering Turnip goes on to the tower you’ll be even more impressed by his energy. Seeing the town might remove a few of your illusions that it is all trees and flowers though!

    1. Me too! We did not want to add to the woes of our health service by doing ourselves an injury, so avoided the really treacherous routes – there are a few!

  3. I just finished watching the video. The Wandering Turnip?? He’s hilarious! But he gave me a stomachache as I watched him run up and up after that huge lunch! It was especially fun to watch after having visited there through your blog. Darwen looks nothing like where I’m from, and yet it is much like it with its remnants of industry. Darwen has done a better job of holding onto its personality. I enjoyed his praise of the old.

    1. Ah, I see you are well acquainted now, with the Turnip and the town after making a coffee, perhaps? I liked his framing of the old town too. I will not be taking up the offer of a pint to try to beat him to the top, but perhaps not running up after loading up with carbs is where we are going wrong.

      1. Not sure I’d call that “going wrong.” Loading up with carbs and then running/climbing like that? Pass the oxygen. Even when I was his age, I couldn’t have done that. I’m glad to hear you aren’t taking up his challenge — I’d have to think there are less risky ways to earn a pint! A fun video, for all that.

        1. We met a man from Sheffield this weekend whose granny was offered 20 cigarettes and 3 pints to be an extra in The Full Monty when it was being filmed near to where she lived. She’d turned them down.

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